| AD CATEGORY :: Hot Rod/Street Rod/Custom :: Pontiac 1955-1979 |
Ad #1206298 Posted:2008-05-13 22:55:32
This ad expired 54 days ago.
1969 69 firebird pro street legal custom
$18,500.00
CAR:
1969 firebird, original California car, I have past registrations to show this. There is extensive background on the car as far as previous owners. I have the original registration and the temporary registration used when purchased from the dealership in So. Cal. In 1969. This car was originally a six cylinder, three speed car with manual drum brakes…it has changed somewhat since then. It has approximately 116K miles on it right now.
BODY:
All original except for four places. The hood is a fiberglass 5 inch cowl mounted on the hinges. A very low patch behind the left rear tire was put in and there was two floor pan sections put in, one was the left, rear floor pan area and the other was the left front floor pan area. All MIG welded in and looks great, no faked up crap job or covered up with rubberized undercoating to disguise a poor job. Just has a good layer of flat black paint on it to prevent rust. The body is clean and straight, it was stripped to bare metal prior to build/modification. New weather-stripping and windshield installed.
BODY MODIFICATIONS:
Rear frame rails were replaced, the originals were fine with C. E. 2x3 formed frame rails and C.E. weld-in subframe connectors. Urethane body bushings were installed throughout prior to welding. Wheel tubs have been modified/mini-tubbed to accommodate 29x15.50x15 tires with leaf spring set up. If it were to be changed to a ladder bar set up, the tubs would hold an 18.50 rear tire but would need a different wheel backspacing. Quarter panel wheel openings were NOT modified or stretched. Fuel tank was removed and a 20 gallon aluminum sumped cell with foam and a GM sending unit is mounted between the frame rails in the trunk. The rear area was not just gutted and re-tinned, as much stock sheet metal was retained as was possible. 10 point cage MIG welded ties it all together.
SUSPENSION:
Front has new urethane bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, slotted disc brakes, Hotchkis 2 inch drop big block springs, 1 1/8 inch anti sway bar and urethane body bushings.
Rear is new 1.5 inch drop 5 leaf springs with new bushings and custom traction bars. It has manual steering and manual brake at the time but I have a power steering box, pump and brackets for it.
REAR END:
12 bolt chevy narrowed to 45 inches and has ford ends to eliminate the need for C-clips. It has an new Auburn posi-trac, Moser axles, new bearings, studs, new drum brakes, 1350 yoke and an Ultimate 12 girdled aluminum cover. Gears are new, 3.90 ratio. Shocks are KYB. Driveshaft is out of a Craftsman Truck series race truck, 4 inch diameter, balanced and has new 1350 joints and a new front yoke.
TRANSMISSION:
Muncie 4 speed out of a 1965 Chevelle. I don’t know that much about it but I think it is a wide ratio, nothing fancy, transmission. I just had it rebuilt for 600 dollars and the dumb thing grinds a little on downshifting into third gear. Its not terrible but just a real light gear noise as it goes in like the syncro isnt quite right or something. Im not a tranny guy so I don’t know why its doing that but I do know it isn’t right. Dont really know what it would need but if I were to keep this car, it would get a Richmond 5 or 6 speed. It would make it that much more fun to drive. Shifter is a Hurst comp plus with button T-handle for the roll control, it’s not wired in yet. Clutch is a new Hays 11 inch with a Borg and Beck pressure plate and flywheel and throwout bearing is also new.
ENGINE:
Big block chevy 454 bored .030 over, block is a 1973 out of a truck, good strong 2 bolt main block. All machine work was completed, bored, line honed, decked for true, tanked, scrubbed and all that good stuff. It has an original steel crank polished standard, uncut 1053 steel out of a 1973 truck motor. Rods are Scat I-beam forged and the pistons are Speed-pro forged with a .221 dome. Heads are 049 casting oval port heads. A very light clean up port job was done but no real metal was removed, just a little work in the pocket transition, short radius and cleaned up the casting flaws. They have 2.19 Manley stainless intake and 1.88 Manley stainless exhaust valves. Springs and hardware are Lunati and are matched to the cam. It has Harland Sharpe roller rockers and stud girdles. Headers are Hooker competition 2 1/8 primary into 3.5 collectors and 3 inch X pipe and afterburner mufflers, sounds great. Cam is a mild Lunati, specs available if needed but is very street friendly. Intake is a Weiand Team G with an 850 double pumper. It has new urethane motor tranny mounts and hi torque mini starter. Distrubutor is a crappy electronic and needs to be replaced, it is new but low quality. Oil pan is a low profile Milodon 7 Qt. Bellhousing is a Lakewood blow-proof, balancer is aftermarket and is SFI rated. It has an aluminum radiator and new one wire 100 amp alternator. I would guess this engine to be in the neighborhood of 500HP, if not a tick over that. The big 15.50 inch tires don’t stand a chance!!
WHEELS/TIRES:
Wheels are 12x15 draglites on back with Hoosier 29X15.50X15 street radials with about 250 miles on them. The front are 6X15 Draglites with Fusion 225/65R15 tires with about 250 miles on it.
INTERIOR:
Custom seats, five point race harness welded into the cage. New dash pad, headliner, carpet, weather seals, window felts. Thermal/sound barrier was put down prior to carpet install. Very clean, uncut dash. The bad…rear seat is not finished. The framework is there to fit a close to stock appearing seat around the cage and tubs but its just not finished. Also the kick panels and A pillar moldings need replacing. The interior does not have a bunch of gauges and junk hanging everywhere, it is very stock appearing and only has 2 gauges mounted under dash…oil pressure and water temp. I dont even have a tach in it right now…the motor lets you know when it wants to shift. Door panels are stock and could use a replacing. All glass is good, windshield is new, all others are originals and they have light scratches throughout, but not the windshield. Some are not too obvious, some are…
PAINT:
This car looks great but it is a DRIVER, not a 100 point show car, there are flaws in the paint job. With that being said, it is a beautiful job. The body work is very straight. It is a Base/Clear, PPG Arrival Blue, clear is PPG Concept 2042. The bad…the hood needs to be reshot or color sanded out. There are two areas that are hazy from too much clear coat. There are photos of this and that is the only reason I would recommend repainting the hood.
ABOUT THE CAR:
I have only drove this car approximately 250 miles since completing it. The longest cruise was to participate in the Kool Deadwood Nites parade this last August and that was a trip of about 100 miles. Almost all parts are new with only 250 miles on them. It really hasn’t even been tuned in yet. The cost of parts alone is way beyond the reserve I have on the car, I did not build it to make a profit. It drives very well, handles nice with no body roll and the suspension works great. Tires dont rub and the front end is really down in the weeds but it doesnt drag at all.
THINGS THAT NEED TO BE COMPLETED:
Interior needs finishing, kick panels, package tray, rear seat upholstery, A pillar moldings and door panels. Ignition system should be upgraded to match the engine, Id put, at least, an MSD 6AL setup and a good quality distributor in it. Front end needs an alignment, hasnt been done yet because I was going to install the power steering first but is very close right now. The hood needs repainting. It should get an electric fan or a shroud put on the radiator. It does not like to idle for long periods on summer days, temp goes up to about 215 degrees which isn’t terrible but it would run better if it could stay a bit cooler and there would not be any worries on hot days. Speedometer cable is too short to reach the connection on the Muncie, it is on the opposite side of where the three speed tranny connected. It is a two piece cable so a short extension cable is all that is needed. There is no overflow recirculation tank on it right now. Plumb and wire the Line-Lock if wanted. Power steering box and pump needs to be installed, it is included with the sale of the car. Im sure Im overlooking small things but I have tried to fully disclose the details of this car as best as I can.
SALE:
This is a cool car and its a blast to drive but only if you car afford it. ALL SALES ARE FINAL, purchaser assumes all responsibilities for arranging shipping and transport. I will do what I can locally but I do not have a trailer so hauling it is out of the question. I have a clear South Dakota title in my name and ready to transfer. There is no warranty, guaranty, special hand shake or promise expressed or implied. This vehicle is sold AS IS,WHERE IS. Get your finances cleared, no games, no BS, no dreamers or tire kickers.
1969 firebird, original California car, I have past registrations to show this. There is extensive background on the car as far as previous owners. I have the original registration and the temporary registration used when purchased from the dealership in So. Cal. In 1969. This car was originally a six cylinder, three speed car with manual drum brakes…it has changed somewhat since then. It has approximately 116K miles on it right now.
BODY:
All original except for four places. The hood is a fiberglass 5 inch cowl mounted on the hinges. A very low patch behind the left rear tire was put in and there was two floor pan sections put in, one was the left, rear floor pan area and the other was the left front floor pan area. All MIG welded in and looks great, no faked up crap job or covered up with rubberized undercoating to disguise a poor job. Just has a good layer of flat black paint on it to prevent rust. The body is clean and straight, it was stripped to bare metal prior to build/modification. New weather-stripping and windshield installed.
BODY MODIFICATIONS:
Rear frame rails were replaced, the originals were fine with C. E. 2x3 formed frame rails and C.E. weld-in subframe connectors. Urethane body bushings were installed throughout prior to welding. Wheel tubs have been modified/mini-tubbed to accommodate 29x15.50x15 tires with leaf spring set up. If it were to be changed to a ladder bar set up, the tubs would hold an 18.50 rear tire but would need a different wheel backspacing. Quarter panel wheel openings were NOT modified or stretched. Fuel tank was removed and a 20 gallon aluminum sumped cell with foam and a GM sending unit is mounted between the frame rails in the trunk. The rear area was not just gutted and re-tinned, as much stock sheet metal was retained as was possible. 10 point cage MIG welded ties it all together.
SUSPENSION:
Front has new urethane bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, slotted disc brakes, Hotchkis 2 inch drop big block springs, 1 1/8 inch anti sway bar and urethane body bushings.
Rear is new 1.5 inch drop 5 leaf springs with new bushings and custom traction bars. It has manual steering and manual brake at the time but I have a power steering box, pump and brackets for it.
REAR END:
12 bolt chevy narrowed to 45 inches and has ford ends to eliminate the need for C-clips. It has an new Auburn posi-trac, Moser axles, new bearings, studs, new drum brakes, 1350 yoke and an Ultimate 12 girdled aluminum cover. Gears are new, 3.90 ratio. Shocks are KYB. Driveshaft is out of a Craftsman Truck series race truck, 4 inch diameter, balanced and has new 1350 joints and a new front yoke.
TRANSMISSION:
Muncie 4 speed out of a 1965 Chevelle. I don’t know that much about it but I think it is a wide ratio, nothing fancy, transmission. I just had it rebuilt for 600 dollars and the dumb thing grinds a little on downshifting into third gear. Its not terrible but just a real light gear noise as it goes in like the syncro isnt quite right or something. Im not a tranny guy so I don’t know why its doing that but I do know it isn’t right. Dont really know what it would need but if I were to keep this car, it would get a Richmond 5 or 6 speed. It would make it that much more fun to drive. Shifter is a Hurst comp plus with button T-handle for the roll control, it’s not wired in yet. Clutch is a new Hays 11 inch with a Borg and Beck pressure plate and flywheel and throwout bearing is also new.
ENGINE:
Big block chevy 454 bored .030 over, block is a 1973 out of a truck, good strong 2 bolt main block. All machine work was completed, bored, line honed, decked for true, tanked, scrubbed and all that good stuff. It has an original steel crank polished standard, uncut 1053 steel out of a 1973 truck motor. Rods are Scat I-beam forged and the pistons are Speed-pro forged with a .221 dome. Heads are 049 casting oval port heads. A very light clean up port job was done but no real metal was removed, just a little work in the pocket transition, short radius and cleaned up the casting flaws. They have 2.19 Manley stainless intake and 1.88 Manley stainless exhaust valves. Springs and hardware are Lunati and are matched to the cam. It has Harland Sharpe roller rockers and stud girdles. Headers are Hooker competition 2 1/8 primary into 3.5 collectors and 3 inch X pipe and afterburner mufflers, sounds great. Cam is a mild Lunati, specs available if needed but is very street friendly. Intake is a Weiand Team G with an 850 double pumper. It has new urethane motor tranny mounts and hi torque mini starter. Distrubutor is a crappy electronic and needs to be replaced, it is new but low quality. Oil pan is a low profile Milodon 7 Qt. Bellhousing is a Lakewood blow-proof, balancer is aftermarket and is SFI rated. It has an aluminum radiator and new one wire 100 amp alternator. I would guess this engine to be in the neighborhood of 500HP, if not a tick over that. The big 15.50 inch tires don’t stand a chance!!
WHEELS/TIRES:
Wheels are 12x15 draglites on back with Hoosier 29X15.50X15 street radials with about 250 miles on them. The front are 6X15 Draglites with Fusion 225/65R15 tires with about 250 miles on it.
INTERIOR:
Custom seats, five point race harness welded into the cage. New dash pad, headliner, carpet, weather seals, window felts. Thermal/sound barrier was put down prior to carpet install. Very clean, uncut dash. The bad…rear seat is not finished. The framework is there to fit a close to stock appearing seat around the cage and tubs but its just not finished. Also the kick panels and A pillar moldings need replacing. The interior does not have a bunch of gauges and junk hanging everywhere, it is very stock appearing and only has 2 gauges mounted under dash…oil pressure and water temp. I dont even have a tach in it right now…the motor lets you know when it wants to shift. Door panels are stock and could use a replacing. All glass is good, windshield is new, all others are originals and they have light scratches throughout, but not the windshield. Some are not too obvious, some are…
PAINT:
This car looks great but it is a DRIVER, not a 100 point show car, there are flaws in the paint job. With that being said, it is a beautiful job. The body work is very straight. It is a Base/Clear, PPG Arrival Blue, clear is PPG Concept 2042. The bad…the hood needs to be reshot or color sanded out. There are two areas that are hazy from too much clear coat. There are photos of this and that is the only reason I would recommend repainting the hood.
ABOUT THE CAR:
I have only drove this car approximately 250 miles since completing it. The longest cruise was to participate in the Kool Deadwood Nites parade this last August and that was a trip of about 100 miles. Almost all parts are new with only 250 miles on them. It really hasn’t even been tuned in yet. The cost of parts alone is way beyond the reserve I have on the car, I did not build it to make a profit. It drives very well, handles nice with no body roll and the suspension works great. Tires dont rub and the front end is really down in the weeds but it doesnt drag at all.
THINGS THAT NEED TO BE COMPLETED:
Interior needs finishing, kick panels, package tray, rear seat upholstery, A pillar moldings and door panels. Ignition system should be upgraded to match the engine, Id put, at least, an MSD 6AL setup and a good quality distributor in it. Front end needs an alignment, hasnt been done yet because I was going to install the power steering first but is very close right now. The hood needs repainting. It should get an electric fan or a shroud put on the radiator. It does not like to idle for long periods on summer days, temp goes up to about 215 degrees which isn’t terrible but it would run better if it could stay a bit cooler and there would not be any worries on hot days. Speedometer cable is too short to reach the connection on the Muncie, it is on the opposite side of where the three speed tranny connected. It is a two piece cable so a short extension cable is all that is needed. There is no overflow recirculation tank on it right now. Plumb and wire the Line-Lock if wanted. Power steering box and pump needs to be installed, it is included with the sale of the car. Im sure Im overlooking small things but I have tried to fully disclose the details of this car as best as I can.
SALE:
This is a cool car and its a blast to drive but only if you car afford it. ALL SALES ARE FINAL, purchaser assumes all responsibilities for arranging shipping and transport. I will do what I can locally but I do not have a trailer so hauling it is out of the question. I have a clear South Dakota title in my name and ready to transfer. There is no warranty, guaranty, special hand shake or promise expressed or implied. This vehicle is sold AS IS,WHERE IS. Get your finances cleared, no games, no BS, no dreamers or tire kickers.
This item is USED
Trades NOT ACCEPTED
Payment options:
 |
cash in person |
Item Location: BLACK HAWK, SD Get Directions
Instructions for buyer: I would consider selling roller or with trans and no motor. I also have the original seats for the front.
This ad expired 54 days ago.
Ad posted by: toolman916 (#10603)
RaceSpace Profile: NONE [REQUEST]
Member Since: 2003-04-23
Number of Honor Payments: 0
Average Accepted Sale Price: $0.00
Average Honor Payment: $0.00
Phone Number: 605-431-2197
Phone Number: 605-923-5970
- Member has no other classified ads.
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